Necktie construction



oct. 11, 1949. 1 M. M. NEWMAN Y 2,484,182

NECKTIE CONSTRUCTION Filed Jan. 15, 194e e sheets-sheet 1 IN1/EN TUR Oct. 11, 1949. M. M. NEWMAN 2,484,182

NECKTIE CONSTRUCTION Filed Jan. l5, 1946 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 `ELLE-5.4

/ JNVEWIR.

Oct. l1, 1949. M. M. NEWMAN 2,484,182

NECKTIE CONSTRUCTION Filed Jan. 15, 194e e shets-sheet s FLE- Eef 'E1E--7 M I \v A oct. 11, 1949. M. M. NEWMAN 2,484,182.

NECKTIE CONSTRUCTION Filed Jan. 15, 194s G sheets-sheet 4 Oct. 11, 1949. M. M. NEWMAN 2,484,182

l NECKTIE CONSTRUCTION y Filed Jan. v15,1946 M l e sheets-sheet 5 FLE- 1.5-

f FLE- UIL M. M. NEWMAN NECKTIE CONSTRUCTION Oct. l1, 1949.v

6 ISheets-Sheet 6 Fild Jan. l5, 1946 Patented Oct. 11, 1949 UNITED STATES ENT GFFICE 10 Claims.

Thisrinventionrelates to linings for neckties and more particularly to such linings which produce a controlled drape when the necktie is tied.

When a tie is made up, it is desirable to produce an indentation or valley in front of the necktie just below the knot. Such an indentation should be centrally located and serves to give the tie a more pleasing appearance. As far as I am aware, previous eiorts to accomplish this objecn tive generally involved modification of the shape or configuration of the lining. For example, weakening slits, re-enforced sides, stiffeners, or gathered areas were used to cause the desired bulging for the purpose desired. The present invention, however, involves as an object thereof, the production of a necktie lining which produces the desired indentation by the very character of the lining fabric. Thus, aside from a special method of producing the material of which the lining is made, no physical modification of the lining is necessary to produce the indentation. Since the function of a tie lining is to prevent undue distortion of the tie substantially throughout its area, the present means for securing the desired indentation does not interfere with this objective because the lining may be made so as to be hardly distinguishable physically from an ordinary lining while its special characteristics will appear only when the tie is made up. The tie lining in one embodiment of the instant invention is formed with neither cut-outs nor stiiening members or the like so that no portion of the tie is not given the beneiit of the usual forming foundation supplied by the conventional tie linmg.

Another object of this invention is to provide a necktie lining which although apparently unitary in nature, actually is composed of distinguishable areas each serving to apply a special formation to the tie t which the lining is connected.

Another object oi this invention is to provide a tie lining which only manifests tie shaping characteristics when the tie is pulled as in the process of being made up, the lining being further of a resiliency which restores it to a planar state when the tie is not thus made up.

Other objects of my invention will be apparent from the following description, it being understood that the above general statements of the objects of my invention are intended to describe and not to limit it in any manner.

Referring to the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a bottom plan view of a necktie lining illustrating one embodiment of my invention.

Fig. 2 is a top plan view thereof.

Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional view of Fig. 1 taken diagonally on the angle of bias and when the lining shown therein is in a taut or pulled condition.

Fig. 4 is a plan View of the necktie lining shown in the previous gures as applied to a necktie, the rear, or folded over portions of the tie being omitted for the sake of clarity.

Fig. 5 is a plan view of a piece of fabric illustrating diagrammatically the production of tie linings of a composite nature for use in another embodiment of the invention.

Fig. 6 is an enlarged View of alternate sections of Fig. 5 and illustrating a lesser number of uppermost warp threads than of lowermost Warp threads in relation to the filler threads.

Fig. 7 is a View similar to Fig. 6 but with the Woven fabric thereof reversed in Athat the upper warp threads predominate.

Fig. 8 is a plan view of aV necktie lining having end sections according to Fig. 6 and a central section according to Fig. 7.

Fig. 9 is a View similar to Fig. 8 but having the end sections similar to Fig. 7, and the central section similar to Fig. 6.

Fig. 10 is a cross-sectional section of the necktie lining shown in Fig. 8 taken on the angle of bias and when the lining is in a taut or pulled con; dition.

Fig. 11 is a plan view of a necktie lining illustrating still another embodiment of my invention.

Fig. 12 is a cross-sectional view thereof taken on the angle of bias and when the lining is in a taut or pulled condition.

Fig. 13 is an elevational partly broken-away View of a necktie supplied with a lining illustrating still another embodiment of my invention.

Fig. 14 is a rear view thereof.

Fig. 15 is a plan view of the necktie shown in Figs. 13 and 14, the tie being in the stretchedeout state, the outer portion thereof being shown.

16 is a view taken on the lines iii-I6 of Fig. 13.

Fig; 17 is a separate view of the shaping element for the tie liningandV illustrating the concavoconvex formation thereof under the influence of a pulling force.

Referring to Figs. l to 4, the necktie lining 2l] is illustrated as being made up of three separate sections connected side by side by lines of stitching 2l and 22. Each `of the three sections 23, 24 4and 25 is bias-cut so that the composite lining will stretch in a longitudinal direction under the influence of a pulling force applied thereto. The material of which the sections are formed is a woven fabric having a special character of weave. This Weave is such that warp threads are denser or more numerous on one side of the filler than on the other. As illustrated in Fig. 3, and as will be more fully set forth in the discussion of Figs. 6 and 7, the Warp threads W1 are twice as dense in number ias the warp threads ,Wa In other words, two'wa'rp threads W1 occur .for every one warp thread W2 throughout .the weave. I have discovered that when a material of this nature is bias-cut and subjected to a pull, it will eX so as to become convex on the side ofthe denser vwarp Y' threads and conc-ave on the side ofthe warp threads of lesser frequency. Accordingly, section 24 as shown in Fig. 1 has the .w-arpthreads W1 uppermost while the sections y23 and 25'have their warp threads W1 lowermost. The reverse'view as shown in Fig. 2 reverses the distribution in that section 24 there yhas the warp ithreads 'W2 uppermost IWhile tthesections f231and 25 vhave the warp threads W1 uppermost.

It1will=beseen, therefore, thatv when the neck tie lining as shown is pulled, it Will assume .an undulating:shape'in'whichthe concavity of the cen-V tral `section opposes :that of the "endfs'ections It will=be apparent that this shape result-s Afrom the predetermined disposition `of the Idenser ywarp threads wherefeither'convexityior concavity is desired, :the-.disparity ofdispositioniof the respectiveseri'esof warpthreads W1, 1liy'on the respective sides ofthe materiallproducihglthelcontrolled lbend through the Vinteraction of the threads, f and no discontinuities lin the ffform :of openings Ior gatherings-being required.

In Fig. 4 'which :illustrates Ithe :application of the 'described tiefli'nin'fg z2li to a 'necktie 26, the lining is--sov disposed thatesectionllidhasthe denser warp threads W1 facingftheireariofvthetie so that .the less 'dense Warp threads W2 face the front wall of'ltheltie. Thefother-lsections are disposed according to the distribution illustrated `in Fig. 3. It will lbe Iunder-stood, therefore, that 'when .the

necktiefas shown in iFig. Llisfsubjectedtoa pull,

the central portion thereof as controlled .by 'section -.2-li will :.produce f a recess vthroughout the length .of "the pulled area 'andicentrally thereof. This 'recess twill be iemphasized:oreaccentuated 'by the convex portions of the tie elected by lthe concaVo-convexfsha-pe of sections'231and 215, re-

Versed-rel-ative Vto `.the section :24 :to produce the' undulating eect.

.As willbe hereinafterfset-'fortn'the tie'is given its iexed statefunder'theiniluence off-such a vpull `as results from the normal -:a'titionidf imakingup the'tie as Aitis tolbefworn'by the user so 'thatthe ydesired vindentation .or lvalley only rappears during such ltime 'and 4remains while ythe 'tie -is 'being worn. f Y.

'Figf illustrates apiece of"tv1ill^or drill'ma terial in vwhich'ftl'le altern'ate fstripe-like sections thereof :correspond either ctothe 'disposition lof warp'thrads as lin W1 furthe 'reverse and 'less dense disposition represented by W2. The extent of 'the 'sections .is represented Yby th'e `4imaginary lines Lwhich indicate fa change oifvthe weaving pattern as hereinafter described. 'If "desired, "a j'aCOluard type of Weave having alternate longitudinal sections "of 'loosely and 4tightly Woven surfaces Sre'spectively, With'the patterns alternating, may bel employed.

'Fig. 6 4is "a'greatly enlarged view 'wherein the warp threads `yTWs are uppermost v'fand lfare woven together'withthevdenser warplthreads W1 around 4 ller threads F. Fig. '7 which is a -reverse view of Fig. 6 illustrates the reverse disposition of these threads. Each section of one side of the material shown vin Fig. 5 is woven to correspond with the pattern of either Fig. 6 or Fig. '7, and for the sake of simplification, such section-s -or sides will hereinafter be referred to as sections or sides 6 or l, depending upon the dis-position 'of the warp threads. Thus, in the material shown in Fig. 5, the *sections' 'and il follow e'ach lother.allternately so that portions of thematerial-"canbe-fcut out thereof which will incorporate three sections of :the desired sequence for use as the improved tie lining. Eline-material may, therefore, be cut along '.the'lines 'C which extend diagonally lacross every .tether section, `.producing composite linings hav- .ing the m-ore dense 'Warp threads represented by l as Lthe eentrfalsection thereof. Each tie lining appearsftherefore, as illustrated in Fig. 8. Were the material .to be reversed, the tie lining would appear Aas illustrated .in Eig. .9. It is .not believed .necessary to illustrate itheneedle arrangement anddes'ignrequired to :produce the weave of Fig. `5 .since .such arrangement. will 110e rapparent-tothoseskilledlinthe art.

EW'hen a tie lining, bias-.cut and `having'thedllustratedside'by side connection ofseotions', "I, S is pulled, the lining will produce'three'bends as illustrated .in Fig. .10, the sections `1 thereof Ealways vbeing convex, while the-sections 'E always become concave. In `Fig. Ill), as iin Fig. "3, the central section may be considera-bly narrower than .the end sectionsand'the .concavity will nevertheless be suitable Vor even superior'than'that'illustrated.-

'The linings illustrated lin Figs. '8 and '9 are appliedin a conventional manner yto an ordinary necktie, a sewed connectionto'the'tiebeing made centrally of .the ,compositel lining as .illustrated in Fig. 4. Y Y

'In '11 is illustrated Ja composite lining wherein only the central section'istf -the special character of weave required tolproduce the-con trolled drape thereof. `The central section havingv the side 'I uppermostisconnectedby lines of stitching'S' and3l to a simple .over-and-under Woven material wherein the Warp threads .are .equally distributed on A'either side ofltheller .thrcads'R The central section 'has Iits less dense side '16 lowermost. Accordingly, when 'the .lining .is pulledit -will assumethe shape illustratedinFig. l2 .wherein the controlled drapeis .substantially conned tothe central section which, .as in the previous `embodiments, becomes -concavo-.convex on sides 6 and A 'I respectively. vIt is applied y120.22J tie as are the previous embodiments In "the 'embodiment shown in Figs. I3 ...to 17,. a channel-'shaped element'3'5 is sewn'to aconventional 'bias-cut lining .36 lby .aline o'f Stitching '31.

Element 3'5 is of 'the .special Weave above .setV

forth, the side Gthereof facing the front of the tie while the side 1 faces .the rear thereof.

Whereas Vtie lining .36 is of an ordinaryweave which possesses`nocontrollable drape characteristics, its connec'tiont'o lement'3'5'is .such..as.to urge the central portion thereof in'to 'the lconcavo-convexshape assumed by element 35 .when the tie is pulled. This'shape will'be furthenimparted to the'body Aof the 'tie'itsl'f so as to pro-- duce'the central indentation or 'dimple'das'the The action of element 35 is shown in Fig. 17 where the side 6 is rendered concave by pulling on the ends of the element. Such pulling may be effected during the normal make-up of the necktie or may be deliberately applied to produce the desired result.

It will be seen from the above that I have produced a tie lining which shapes the tie by virtue of the special characteristics thereof produced by the weaving pattern, but it will be obvious that many changes and omissions may be made without departing from its spirit. The threads of which the lining is made may be of wool, mohair, or any other conventional tie lining material and, if desired, the warp threads thereof may be heavier and of larger diameter than the ller threads.

The invention thus takes advantage of the distortion characteristics of special materials while controlling these characteristics. The tendency of tie linings to distort and bend under the influence of a pull has long been guarded against in the necktie lining art and tie liningsare generally rejected if they manifest such tendencies. This invention, however, makes use of materials which were hitherto considered defective and applies them so as to take advantage of the socalled defects.

In tie linings comprising, in effect, three longitudinal sections, the principles of the invention herein may be served by forming the two end sections of the special weave set forth herein, while the central section may be of an ordinary weave and not in itself subject to a controlled drape. Its association, however, with the controllable end sections will produce a virtual concavity therein for the desired purpose. Similarly, an elongated strip of material having the same weave throughout embodying a greater density of threads on one side than on the other or in any other manner providing a material of predetermined bending characteristics, may be utilized if means are incorporated therein for disabling a central section so as to remove its controlled bending characteristics. For example, the central section of the uniformly curlable fabric without a twill weave may be formed with longitudinal slits centrally thereof. Such slits would weaken the central portion of the lining so as to prevent its threads from eifecting a central bend or concavity. The end sections, however, would maintain their bending or curling characteristics and would bend in the same direction in the required manner. The end section bends would, therefore, produce the effect of a reverse bend in the center or, in any event, the weave of the central section would be so affected that a, distinctive area would be presented which does not follow the drape of its adjacent sections. In either event, a central concavity would be encouraged. In view of these, and other changes which do not depart from the spirit of the invention, it is described that the invention be limited only by the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

l. A tie lining structure comprising a layer of woven fabric material cut on the bias, said material including a first series of threads and a second series of threads, said i-lrst series of threads occurring in greater frequency on one side of said fabric than said second series of threads on the other side thereof so that the material assumes a bend when pulled, said bend producing a concavity in a predetermined one of the sides of said material.

2. A tie lining structure comprising a bias-cut fabric material, said material including warp threads' appearing onboth sides thereof, the warp threads onrone side ofthe material being more numerous than the warp threads on the other side of the material so that said structure assumes a longitudinal bend when pulled, said bend pro,- ducing a concavity in the side of the material having the lesser number of warp threads thereon.

3. A tie lining structure comprising a bias-cut, woven fabric material, said structure including distinctive longitudinal sections, each of said sections including flller threads and warp threads interwoven therewith, a central sectionof said structure having its warp threads occurring in greater density on one side thereof than on the other, the endwise disposed sections having warp threads occurring in greater density on one side than on the other, said one side of said endwise sections being oppositely disposed to the corresponding `side of said central section, the disparity in density of warp threads being operative to pro duce a bend in said sections when pulled, the bend produced in said central section being opposite to the bends produced in said end sections whereby said structure is given an undulating eiect when said structure is pulled.

4. A tie lining structure comprising a, bias-cut, woven fabric material, said structure including three distinguishable longitudinal sections, said longitudinal sections being interwoven, each of said sections including ller threads and warp threads interwoven therewith, a central section of said structure having its warp threads occurring in greater density on one side thereof than on the other side, the endwise disposed sections similarly having warp threads occurring in greater density on one side than on the other, both said one sides of said endwise sections being on the same side of the tie lining structure and opposite te said one side of said central section, the disparity in density of warp threads on the sides of each of said sections being operative to produce a bend in said sections when pulled, the bend produced in said central section being opposite to the bends produced in said end sections whereby said structure is given an undulating shape when said structure is pulled, said end sections being tapered and said central section being substantially rectangular, the tapers of said end sections causing said end sections to converge toward one end -of said central section.

5. A tie lining structure comprising a bendable material, said structure including three distinctive longitudinal sections, and woven means associated with a centrally disposed section of said structure for imparting a controlled bend thereto, said woven means comprising a disparity in the disposition of threads on the respective sides thereof so as to cause said structure to assume a bend when pulled, said bend producing a concavity in a predetermined one of the sides of said structure, said centrally disposed section and woven means associated therewith being substantially rectangular in shape and the sections on either side thereof tapering in a common direction.

6. A tie lining structure comprising a bendable material, and woven means connected to a centrally disposed longitudinal portion of said structure for imparting a controlled bend thereto, said woven means comprising an elongated strip having filler threads and warp threads interwoven therewith and appearing on either side of said filler .threads, the Warp threads onzer-1e side of theller beingv disposed in greater density than 8 A method of producing tie linings which.

comprises weaving a length of: material in her-l ringbone sections and so as to have a disparity ofv weaving pattern. in successive sections, and

making diagonalcuts in every other sectiorrofY saidherringbone sections whereby tie linings are produced having-v a complete central section .and tapering end sections, said end sections being ofthe same weaving pattern and opposite to that of. said central: section,

9; A method of producingtie linings which comprises Weaving. a lengthof material in herringbone sections and so as to have a disparity of weaving pattern Vin successivesections, biascutting, said length ofv material and making diagonal cuts in every other section of said herringsr borre sections, said diagonal cuts tapering toward a commonV end of said' centralV section whereby tie linings are produced having'a complete centraly section and tapering end sections, said' end sections being of they same weaving pattern andopposite to that of said central section.

10. A method of producing tie linings which comprises weaving. a length of material in herringbcne sections and so as tohave a disparityof weaving. pattern in successive sections, bias-- cutting saidY length of material and thereafter cutting elongated strips of saidv material having acentral section and end sections on4 either side thereof, said end'sections being of the-same weaving pattern andL diierent Vfrom that' of said cen,-

tral section.

MAX M. NEWMAN..

moreRenoirsY CITED Thief following references are of record inthe file o f vthis patent: Y v

STATES PATENTS Number Name' Bate' 1,436,831 Twini-ng' Nov. 28,1922' 1,443,932 Sonnenield' Jan. 30; 1923' 1,494,391 Van Heusen Mayy 20, 1924iv 1,575,063 Recher Mar. 2, 1926 2,156,704: Seman May/'2,1939 

